Next came the connectors between panels. I couldn't have any panel connectors on the front and I didn't want to use a draw latch on the back like the kind you see on watertight cases and such. With a draw latch only on the back, the panels would be pulled too tightly together in the back, creating a bowed effect to the whole display. This couldn't happen, so after some looking and a suggestion from the lady at the hardware store, I went with the tension latches. I used three latches per seam, so six in total. Now the issue was how to attach them to the panels. They came with screws of course, but these were way too long to use on 1/4" acrylic. After figuring out where to put them and trimming the internal spring to reduce the tension (I was afraid too much tension could break them off the acrylic), I drilled screw holes for the larger piece that contained the spring into the panel, just deep enough to not go all the way through the panel. I then used a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to trim the screws so that they would not go through the acrylic panel. For the other piece of the latch, I had to build small blocks out of acrylic to attach them as they mount perpendicular to the panel. Using some acrylic cement and some scrap pieces of acrylic cut to fit the base of the smaller piece of the latch, these blocks were cemented in place on the back of the panel. I then drilled holes into these blocks and used screws, slightly trimmed this time, to attach the second piece to the adjacent panel. So far this mounting solution has worked, though after some handling it is possible that these mounting blocks may break off of the panels.
Now that the panel was finished and working (code development was concurrent with board construction), it needed a stand, which was a simple collapsible design that is nice and compact for shipping. Using some scrap particle board that I had lying around, I simply leaned the panels against the edge of the table, figured it was a good viewing angle, and made some marks on the board. Each stand has four pieces, two legs and two braces. The spacing between the legs for the two smaller panels places them in between the 3rd and 4th LED strip from each side with 4 strips in between them, or about 6 1/2" (16.5cm). The spacing on the third stand is about 5" wider since that panel is about 5" wider than the other two. I used a simple mated-notch design to build the stands, wherein the legs and braces have corresponding notches, all cut to a depth of 1/2 the width of the brace. These notches line up when assembled, making the stand simple yet strong (I would recommend using something a bit stronger than particle board though). Once completed, the stands were given a coat of flat black enamel paint.
The last thing to build was the game controller. I started by placing the push buttons in a standard up/down/left/right diamond pattern. I then soldered a 6-pin, 90deg angled header to the board to allow for attaching the female RJ45 Pmod. +5V and GND will be coming directly from the Max32 through the RJ45 Pmods. One side of each of the four buttons is tied to the other four pins on the header, with pull down resistors for each button, attached between those same header pins and GND, as well. +5V is attached to the other side of each button. The signal back to the Max32 is driven to GND (logic LOW) by the pull-down resistor until the button is pressed, at which point the pin is driven to +5V (logic HIGH). This design is easily reversed if you want a logic LOW to trigger the code to do something. Once the board was all soldered together, the solder points on the bottom were a little sharp. I decided to make a bottom cover so I cut a piece of acrylic to the same size, sanded the edges of both top and bottom pieces, and screwed some metal standoffs between them. The controller is just the right size, large enough to fit in one hand but easy to use with only one hand.
An image of how each of the components are connected together is provided in this step.
Now it's time to take a look at the code, so I'll hand this I'ble off to JColvin91.
How to Start Your Own LED Display Screen Assembly Line？
The answer is DON'T think it too complicated and plan big at first.
First, to have a quick lesson on LED light display screen, let you have a clear picture.
There is 7 factors you need to consider for making a LED light display screen.
* LEDs
* LED Display Modules
* Cabinet
* Control System ( controller box, sending card & receiving card)
* Power Supply
* Data Cable & Power Cable
* Other device/tool need for local assembly
1. The LED Components
The LED light display screen has indoor and outdoor application. Beside the waterproof IP grade, the brightness required for Indoor and Outdoor application are different.
The outdoor LED light display screen need higher brightness than indoor LED light display screen, for it's disclosed under sunshine.
So for the LED components used, according to the brightness level are divided into for regular brightness (800-1000 nits) indoor LEDs and high brightness (4000 - 6000 nits) outdoor LEDs.
And the SIZE of the LEDs limit Pixel Pitch can make for indoor and outdoor LED light display screen.
The smallest indoor LED 0808 allow to make the smallest pixel pitch P1.0 Indoor LED display screen， while there are P1.25, P1.56, P1.667, P1.875, P1.923, P2, P2.5, P3, P4, P5, P6.
The smallest outdoor LED 1921 allow to make the smallest pixel pitch P3.0 Outdoor LED display screen, while there are P4, P5, P6，P6.7, P8, P10.
2. LED Display Modules
For the Modules, points to consider:
* Indoor LED modules and Outdoor LED modules :
Indoor LED Display Modules made with regular brightness LED, there are P1.0, P1.25, P1.56, P1.667, P1.875, P1.923, P2, P2.5, P3, P4, P5, P6 LED Display Screen Modules.
while Outdoor LED Display Modules made with high brightness LED, there are P3.0, P4, P5, P6，P6.7, P8, P10 LED Display Screen Modules.
* The Size of the LED Modules
You need to consider and well-known for the sizes of the LED display screen modules, to calculate the QTY. of LED display screen modules need for LED display screen / wall in different sizes.
And to know for a the same size LED display screen, different Pixel Pitch LED modules used, the PRICES vary quite a lot.
Below is an example to show you. CLICK HERE TO KNOW WHY THERE ARE SO BIG DIFFERENCE.
3. The Cabinets
Two options: Die-casting Aluminum Cabinet and Standard Iron Sheet Simple Cabinet.
1) Die-casting Aluminum Cabinet: Need mold, is extruded to form via Molding Machine, and it has features as " High Quality Aluminum Alloy with Good Dissipation, High Brightness, High Grey Scale, Seamless Assembly, Silent Design with Fan-less Design".
2) Iron Sheet Standard Cabinet: Simple made, and can custom-make to any sizes. Note: customized size need to match with the LED display screen modules. Features: Light Weight, Independent disassembly box, High Brightness, High Grey Scale, Cabinet Size and Shape can be Customized Freely.
4. Control System (controller box, sending card & receiving card)
* The brands of controller/card depends on the customer preferences. If no special requirement, we will recommend the most cost-efficient model to our clients.
* The controlling pixel pitch qty. of those devices.
Each model of the controller/card has its max loading pixel pitch quantity (LED quantity). We learn before that the different pixel pitch LED display modules vary a lot.
How many control card need for a LED display screen depends on the Pixel Density and the control card's spec.
The control card's Loading Capacity should bigger than the Pixel Density of your LED display screen.
Below picture show the Pixel Density for different LED Display Modules.
Below picture shows the Loading Capacity of different control card.
5. Power Supply
For the installation space is narrow, the power supply used for LED display screen should be small and in low profile.
QTY. need for different project, we can give your calculation.
* CE approved or UL approved
* Famous brand or common brand
6. Data Cable & Power Cable
We will give you the QTY. of each cable need, once get known of your projects.
7. Other device/tool need for local assembly
* Tools: Screw Driver, Multi-meter
* Aging test mounting bracket for LED display screen modules, we can give you solution for what we use in our own factory.
* Finished LED Display Screen Cabinet AgingTest Frame , we can give you solution for what we use in our own factory.
* Training ( assembly operator and software knowledge, we can provide the training).